Month: September 2019 (Page 2 of 2)

Maple Juice Cove, ME

Olsen Farm


And the wind was coming from exactly the direction we needed to go – so much for sailing. A Maine friend has recently admitted he only gets to sail about 30% of his days on the boat – the rest of the time the wind is too light or from the wrong direction and they wind up motoring. That seems to be our summer this year, though the sailing we have done has been absolutely lovely, albeit slow. We were at least able to put out our jib as we rounded Port Clyde and motorsailed up to Maple Juice Cove. The weather turned wet, so most boats kept to themselves. John and Helena from Petronella had anchored right next to us, so they came over in their dinghy in between rain spells. Trip was happy to talk boats and I was happy to talk baking and cooking – John was kind enough to bring me yogurt starter and tips on making it. Other than that it was a quiet afternoon and evening.

Maple Juice Cove

The next morning we had the chance to visit the Olsen Farm which is now an extension of the Farnsworth Museum. The farm and Christina Olsen are the subjects of two of the most famous Andrew Wyeth paintings titled ‘Christina’s World’ and ‘Wind From the Sea’. Wyeth himself is buried along with the Olsen family and other locals in the small cemetary just across the road. We were fortunate enough to have a private tour of the farmhouse and learned many stories behind what initially seem to be innocous paintings. Example: Christina’s world appears to be a painting of a young woman stretched out in a field looking back toward the farmhouse. If you look closer, her arms are quite spindly and her knuckles worn and knobby. It turns out Christina had a rare familial disease that left her unable to walk in later years as an adult. Rather than use a wheelchair, she dragged herself about by her arms, subtly reflected in the painting.

Dinghy Fun

We had been split into two staggered groups for a less than crowded visit and had been asked to dinghy with other boats over to the limited dock space. Sid and Ron on Cadeau were gracious enough to give us a lift, which gave us a chance to get to know yet two more members of the OCC. At the age of 80 (?), Sid had just the year before crewed for a boat that crossed the Pacific to the Marquesas. She also had the accomplishment of having been the first female commodore of the Camden yacht club. The more people I meet in this group the more impressed I am – what an inspiration.

Saphir

Late that afternoon we were invited ashore by Cabot and Heidi Lyman to have a potluck dinner ashore on their property. I used up the last of my Maine blueberries and made lemon blueberry bars with some lemon cake mix (cheated). Most of the talk was about where people were headed next: mostly how far south and how quickly were people going to move. We knew Mads & Lotta needed to be in the Chesapeake mid-September and would begin their run south as the weather shifted to favorable east and north winds. We made plans for a final get together down in Port Clyde the next day with them and Saphir.

High/Dix/Birch Islands, ME

Looma IV & Scintilla

Hurricane Island is not a great place to anchor (very rolly), so we continued on to an anchorage in a cluster of islands with decent wind protection. We’ve passed by this anchorage twice on our way to Rockland, and this was our chance to finally stop. The holding was OK for the anchor (several boats dragged and had to reset multiple times), and we had a really fun social hour on a beach on Birch Island. At the end of that, we had the crews of Saphir and Looma IV over to our boat for a third night of cocktails, and watched one of the best sunsets of the summer. Mads had brought Cuban rum and cigars – what a way to enjoy the sunset……

Katrin


There are hiking trails on the islands (which are all privately owned), but we felt a little bit of wind the next morning and opted to leave earlier to try and get some sailing in.

Hurricane Island, ME

Former Quarry on Hurricane Island

Hurricane Island was an unexpected treat. Originally the site of an Outward Bound School founded by an OCC member, it’s now a school for offshore research related to the Gulf of Maine, along with sustainability programs for school children and young adults (the school is 95% free of fossil fuels, using propane only for a kitchen stove and gas for a tractor and boat). The hiking trails around the island reveal the remnants of an old granite quarry (among lots of other buildings, etc, the base of the Washington Monument is of Hurricane Island granite).

Scallop Close Up

They are one of the few places studying scallops in Maine. The scallop industry is the second biggest industry in Maine (though it’s far below #1 lobster), and it’s becoming more critical as the lobster industry faces the threat of climate change (though the Maine lobstering community has worked hard to protect the populations, lobsters are slowly moving north from Maine to Canada as the water temperature has been rising). The lead researcher gave us an entire presentation on the scallop life cycle and current harvesting programs (along with hands on inspection).

Scallop Handlers

Seal Bay (Vinalhaven), ME


Oh, the fog. Pea soup fog. Rolling into Camden. One moment you could see across the mooring field, the next you could only see the boat ahead of you. We kept waiting and waiting, and finally decided to take a chance and go. We got out the fog horn and crept out of the harbor along with a few other brave souls in the mini cruise.

Trip & Mads

It’s always eery going along in the fog, but we had an easy enough trip. The only thing I was concerned with was Seal Bay itself – it’s a bit of a labyrinth to wind your way into and I had no desire to do it in fog. Luckily the fog lifted as we passed through the Fox Haven Thoroughfare and it was an easy run into Seal Bay. We dropped anchor and joined the cocktail party in full swing on Grayce and Gemeaux (a 44 ft catamaran). We later found out they had flown a drone to get an aerial shot of all the boats at anchor. I normally hate drones, but when we’re part of the subject in the photo it’s rather fun. To finish the evening, Klaus & Katrin invited us and Looma IV onboard Saphir for an additional drink to wind down the night.

Good thing we brought along an extra line for a really really really long tie up….

We knew there was a hiking trail, so the next morning Mads picked us up and we headed over like Lewis & Clark to explore and report back to the rest of the boats. We found the trail and had a lovely walk with multiple pretty views of the anchorage, with the only downside being low tide and lots of thick black mud that we had to walk through to get to shore (though women pay big money for these mud treatments in spas these days).

Camden, ME


Maine Fog

As we were setting the jib the next morning, Tanqueray came through the thoroughfare and came along side. We were off to Camden, and they were off to Rockland. We blew kisses and shouted our goodbyes to Viviane, hoping to catch up with both of them sometime around Labor Day, and hopefully Lawrence before that.

It was a downwind run to Camden and we went wing on wing. One of the schooners was right behind us, and it slowly started filling the gap. I laughed and started quoting the movie The Princess Bride: “Do you think they are using the same wind as us? Inconceivable!!!”

We got to Camden late afternoon, and started our typical shore visit: loading up the trash (you can’t dispose of trash on many of the islands because they don’t have facilities except for locals), gathering up the dirty laundry, and packing our toiletry bags for a long hot shower.

The whole reason we stopped in Camden this season (apart from it being one of the more charming Maine seaside towns) was the OCC (Ocean Cruising Club) Rally and Mini Cruise. We joined the OCC two years ago, whose only required qualification is to sail non-stop for 1,000 miles. Can’t stop and anchor. Can’t stop at a dock for fuel. Can’t grab a mooring to wait out a storm. We qualified with our off shore run from Norfolk to St Thomas (1,500 miles). But we’re chump change in this sailing community. We’ve met more people who have circumnavigated and traveled to the most incredible places by boat. The rally was a chance for 135+ members to get together to trade stories and enjoy the beautiful Maine day over lobster rolls and blueberry crumble.

Ocean Cruising Club Rally

We had also reserved the marina’s coutesy car, so we went off to do some heavy provisioning (read booze and all the other heavy things you don’t want to walk to the boat normally). Though downtown markets are charming, prices and offerings are usually better at the standard supermarkets that are a longer distance out of town. We got everything organized and went over to Looma IV to have sundowners with Mads & Lotta, as well as to chat more with Klaus & Katrin on Saphir, a beautiful Hallberg Rassy.

Monday morning everyone raced for the marina showers (no one wants to waste water on the boat if they don’t have a watermaker), and then we all set off for Seal Bay, Vinalhaven. We had decided to join a group of OCC boats for a mini-cruise (everyone sails their own boats to a set location each day for 4 days).

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