Month: September 2021 (Page 2 of 2)

Ida passed over with a fair amount of wind, but Harmon Harbor was exactly what we needed and we never budged from the anchor. Once the winds died, we set out further west for Ridley Cove. The last time we were there my anxiety levels were at a record high watching the ledges close in on our boat as the tide went out. This time we anchored closer to the mooring field.

James and Jenny from s/v Esperanza were able to take Friday off to extend the Labor Day holiday weekend and joined us late that night. We rowed over and did a potluck dinner onboard Esperanza that night and caught up on the summer. The next day we dinghied over to the marina dock and wandered into Cundys Harbor for ice cream and lunch. Then it was back to the boats for another potluck dinner, this time on Kalyra. A great two nights.

We knew we needed protection from Hurricane Ida, but also wanted to continue our way west. I found Harmon Harbor up the Sheepscot River, just south of Five Islands (a former fun anchorage from another summer).

The entrance had a high ‘pucker factor’. There is a red buoy marking the entrance, but during the approach you would swear it’s washed up on shore. Once we got to the buoy and positioned ourselves for the entrance, it was ledges 15 feet on either side of us with waves breaking. Did I mention that it was low tide?

The harbor was perfect once past the entrance. It was small enough to provide protection from wind and swell, and there was plenty of room to anchor behind the mooring field. Almost immediately a pair of ospreys put on a show, dive-bombing and chasing a bald eagle (who had most likely stolen a fish from one of them).

Despite there being no public shore access in the harbor, there was a dinghy dock for the Grey Haven Inn. I called up and we were able to get a couple of seats at the bar for drinks and an appetizer before they filled up for the evening. We dinghied over and walked up a path (including over a bridge with old metal bed headboards used as railings) to the inn. Built in 1906, new owners renovated it 11 years ago and opened the restaurant to the public. We wandered around admiring the inn, as well as the view down into the harbor. Drinks and apps were just what we needed, and we headed back to the boat to batten down the hatches.

We went back to Port Clyde, this time with the intention of skipping the Barn Bar and instead checking out the Black Harpoon (recommended by Torben). To stretch our legs and to kill time till the restaurant opened, we got some ice cream and walked out to the lighthouse. On our way back we met Nick and Linda from Lynx (anchored right next to us), and they wound up joining us for drinks and a bite to eat. Then it was back to the boat and studying charts for where to head with hurricane Ida exiting the coast.

It was the time of year to start our goodbyes to old and new friends. We did a final run down to Rockland for the last load of laundry, the last grocery run, the last water stop, etc. We were expecting one day of high winds from the southwest before something more favorable arrived for us to start heading west again.

Mary and Christian of s/v I Wanda had a car in Rockland, and offered us a ride out to the Owlshead Transportation Museum, which we had never visited since it’s too far to walk (a perpetual cruising dilemma). The collection of old cars, planes, and bikes was absolutely remarkable to tour. Even better was that Dick and Moira from s/v Equinox joined in. We capped the afternoon off with ‘7 napkin’ burgers from a local general store and said goodbye to great friends.

We had passed through the Fox Islands Thoroughfare several times over the years and never stopped to check out Perry Creek. We had a chance to see Tivoli one last time so we headed over and managed to get a mooring courtesy of Alan on Evening Star through the OCC.

After a bittersweet round of farewell cocktails onboard Tivoli with Judy, Torben and Scuppers, the next day the dreaded Maine fog finally lifted and we did the hike on the southern side of the anchorage.

Land trusts are more and more common to find in Maine these days, with families making property available to the public for hiking. The Fox Rocks trail was one of those preserves. Miraculously it was free of mosquitoes, and it featured a few of the charming fairy houses we find periodically. The view from the peak was spectacular, looking down over one of the southeastern bays of Vinalhaven.

The dinghy was high and dry on a rock ledge with the receding tide, but a little maneuvering and we were floating again. We passed the most lovely little houseboat, built by locals who intended to use it as an Airbnb but then fell in love with it and only use it themselves. Looking at the outdoor shower, and all the plants, I can’t blame them.

We tagged along with Blue Highway down to Isleboro as we were making our way back to Rockland. We had met port officers Dick and Kathy a couple of years earlier, but it was a pleasure to drop anchor just in front of their house and enjoy sundowners and a bit of catching up on their back deck.

We were headed to Belfast one last time when we got word that Lynn and Russell on Blue Highway were coming over from Smith Cove a day early to spend time with us. We had managed to be in the same general areas all summer and never quite caught up with each other, so this was quite the treat.

We both hit a dead spot with no wind and just a whisper of current for 30 minutes or so north of Isleboro Island. Russell joked that we were experiencing tantric sailing, though I was itching to kick on the motor. When the wind did hit on the other side, whoa! Were we off! In just a few seconds we were already seeing speeds of 6 and 7 knots! A local private schooner from Belfast even came out to enjoy the ride.

The sundowners on Blue Highway one night and on Kalyra the next was the highlight, but close seconds were the food co-op (as usual), the blueberry pie (couldn’t resist going back), lunch at a local Laotian restaurant, and the Belfast farmers market. Sign me up, I’m ready to move to Belfast!

I had wanted to try the Barred Islands since I stalked a fellow cruiser anchored there earlier in the season. Ernie on Goldeneye was good enough to describe the anchorage and I had made a note. The entry is a little daunting as the anchorage sits between four islands. It looks fine at high tide, but the ledges that come out at low tide make you feel like you’re in a lagoon.

We managed to snag one of the two moorings and had a lovely & quiet few hours to enjoy this beautiful spot by ourselves before a few other boats arrived. The last two were particularly annoying as they knew each other and insisted on yelling back and forth between the boats despite the echo chamber we were in. Our solitude interrupted, we knew it was time to move on the next day.