We had such a good time at Radovan’s konoba the day before (and I was getting the hang of driving Montenegro’s crazy windy roads), so we decided to drive down the Morača canyon road again and stop for breakfast. Local nana (mint) tea, nuts, dried fruit, and Google Translate allowed us to pass an hour with our new friend. He invited us back to fish with him next time, and I told him I fly fish. He raced to his backpack and proudly pulled out flies that he had tied himself!
Bellies and hearts full, we wound our way down the canyon road through Podgorica and then to Cetinje, the former royal capital of the country. The town has several museums, but one in particular has the best display of Montenegrin historical artifacts. And unfortunately we arrived only to find out that it was closed for renovations.
Compared to the glitziness of Tivat and the touristiness of Kotor, Cetinje is absolutely charming, and it’s designed for walking. One end of town features the Monastary of Crnojević, built in 1484 and named for a royal who had returned after having been exiled in Italy.
We wandered around town a bit more, grabbed a quick lunch of Caesar salad and grilled sausage with chips, then it was time to head back to Tivat, as we had errands yet to run that day. Of course, this meant the drive down the mountains to Budva, another one of those drives which require two hands on the wheel and eyes straight ahead so as not to look at the edge of the cliff you’re next to!
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