We had spent the morning in Nikšić with Peja, Milanka, and their younger son Nikola. We were then met by their older son Vojo. Now it was time for all of us to make our way to the Ostrag Monastery. Founded by Bishop Vasilije, the monastery was originally three caves in the side of the mountain, serving as a church, sleeping quarters, and finally a chapel to hold religious artifacts. The story has it that seven years after he died and was buried, a local Abbott opened up the gravesite (after seeing this in dreams) and found the body completely intact and smelling like basil. He was anointed St Basil and his body remains at the monastery today.
The drive up is a series of switchbacks not for the faint of heart (like all the roads seem to be in Montenegro). I was grateful that Peja’s son Vojo was willing to drive, and Vojo was thrilled with our car (a new Skoda sedan).
The upper monastery was rebuilt 1923-26 after a major fire, but two of the caves were spared. Though you are not allowed to take pictures inside the chapel, the painted walls of the caves are still in amazing condition. Absolutely remarkable is the grape vine growing directly from the rock (no other substrate whatsoever) that continues to produce grapes annually.
Ostrag has truly been one of the highlights of our journey in Montenegro, made all the more special by new friends showing us their homeland.
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